Roots are the very foundation of a plant/tree.
Did you know most plants and tree's roots extend out 2-4x the width of the canopy/limbs?
This is important news. If you're doing contruction or landscaping near your big beautiful tree, you may be damaging the roots without knowing!
Well of course soil is important, but why?
Many different factors come together to make up a good healthy soil. From the solids to air ratio, The pH of the soil, and even the type of soil in general (Clay, Sand, Silt, Loam)
Type of soil is generally going to vary based on location in the states. (I.E. Georgia Clay)
So ideally, you want to have a soil environment not compacted by heavy foot traffic, or machinery.
If the soil gets too compact it makes nutrients and water unavailable for the Plant/Tree. Soil has many micro and macro-pores allowing water and minerals to sit to be used.
This can be DETRIMENTAL to a Plant/Tree's well being or LIFE.
Over fertilization can cause similar conditions to Leaf Scald! Giving the tree a burnt look.
Crispy, yellow, dying look. Over all may even kill the Species.
In order to do the TRUE proper fertilization of a Plant/Tree, you must first know
"What is available in my soil?" - This can be found out with a Soil Analysis
(Lowes, Tractor Supply) have some cheap versions of these.
Once you send out and acquire the condition, you'll see what sort of minerals (Micro/Macro-nutrients) are available, THEN you come up with a plan to fertilize, filling in the missing nutrients.
There are two MAIN types of Fertilizer: Quick Release and Slow Release(Over-time)
Quick Release is great for a quick boost of small needed nutrients, especially Nitrogen.
Slow Release, however, would be an excellent choice when figuring out an annual plan to keep your tree or plants healthy all year long. Just be careful during selection. You don't want any type of Slow-Release with a high Solubility.
Less than 50% is preferred. This is because in torrential rain, Fertilizer becomes more and more available as it dissolves.
Slow Release is more resistant to this, but not completely free of the fact that constant Saturated conditions (Mostly running water) will continue to release the fertilizer, potentially over fertilizing the plant or tree. Causing Fertilizer Burn (Due to high salts). This can actually trigger what's known as, Reverse Osmosis, which will pull water BACK out of the tree.
Leave it to the professionals! Sometimes saving a few bucks is NOT worth the trouble or ending product.
Whether it's plant/tree health or the removal of an unwanted/Hazardous tree, we have you covered!
Is pruning always needed? No. But it has some great benefits. Maybe a weight reduction is needed, or some thinning. Just a bit of air penetration to make the tree safer in wind storms.
It's better to be Proactive than Reactive.
-Pruning keeps some of the larger growing trees, very solid, greatly reducing the risk of failure in roots/trunk/limbs.
-Pruning can make your plant/tree look better! Shaping is a common practice.
-Pruning is a very healthy choice for trees, in a lot of situations. Trees will sometimes get overgrown, or a couple branches might grow against each other.
This can cause 'Girdling' and over time vascular damage as the branches/tree grow against each other. Pruning can correct the direction of growth.
This will also prevent death and bark damage which will leave the tree/plant more susceptible to Pests and Diseases!
Here we have an excellent layout, Root flare exposed, good grade with soil to mulch. No mulch volcanoes.
This is how a tree should look all the time. If your tree shows no Root Flare at all, then it's been planted too deep. This can cause serious problems later.
Moisture in the soil/mulch pushed against the trunk of the tree will eventually cause rot from too much moisture.
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